The Mona de Pasqua is one of the most deeply rooted Easter traditions. While a lot of things linked with this religious cycle are not what they were, the Easter cake known as the mona is still very, very popular. Godparents all round the country continue to honour their duty and buy one for their godchildren, resulting in thousands being sold, with some top pastry chefs producing their most daring creations. In fact, one of the most interesting things about this tradition is it is alive and constantly evolving, a sure sign that it is in good health. Also, the range of monas on offer in Catalonia is much more varied than it appears at first sight, and goes beyond the more commercial trends. Would you like to know more about this custom, whose origins and meaning are uncertain?

• The most traditional mona is made from brioche, round and topped with hard-boiled eggs.
• Pastry chefs call this ‘cristina’ (maybe from ‘cristiana’ or Christian originally) or rolled dough.
• According to Joan Amades in Costumari català, the recipe has been known since the 15th century and it wasn’t covered in chocolate then.
• That was added in the 16th century, when cacao arrived from the Americas.
• This type of mona is not so common in cake shops now but they are the easiest ones to make at home. Here you have the recipe.
• Eggs are the most important element of Easter in many places round Europe because they are part of the symbolism related to the arrival of spring and the fertility rituals.
• It seems these are all pre-Christian beliefs and, as often happened with folk and traditional culture, they were incorporated into the Christian religion.
• Almost everywhere in the Principality of Catalonia it is the tradition for a godparent or grandparent to give their godchild or grandchildren a cake.
• And tradition has it that this mona has to contain as many eggs as the child receiving it is years old, with a maximum of twelve.
• That is because in years gone by, children received the mona until they received their first communion, at the age of twelve.
• A very common alternative to brioche monas are cakes made with layers of sponge filled with crème brûlée, chocolate, cream or butter.
• The decoration is rounded off with chocolate eggs, little chicks made out of felt and goose feathers dyed in vivid colours.
• From chocolate eggs we have moved onto all kinds of structures that reproduce small houses, footballs and the faces of the most popular cartoon characters.
• This is also where the more creative cake makers let their imagination run wild, producing chocolate creations that are more like works of art.
• These days the mona is subject to commercial fashions which means the themes and characters that are the flavour of the month with kids always win.
• This year Peppa Pig, Paw Patrol and Frozen are the ones most in demand.
• The origin and meaning of the mona are by no means clear. Some people think it is an Arab term meaning ‘present’, while others say it is a festival that derives from Ancient Greece. Possible Roman and Celtic roots have also been found.
• Whatever the truth, the mona is eaten in nearly all Catalan-speaking lands. In Valencia and Murcia it has retained the original brioche shape with a hard-boiled egg on top and is called ‘tonya’.
• A traditional mona does not have to be sweet. It can also be eaten with savoury products, such as llonganissa or other cured meats.
• And in some places the godchild has to sing a little song it they want their godparent to give them the cake. For example: ‘Pasqua és avui,/ la mona la vull./ (Today is Easter,/ I want the mona) Doneu-me la mà/ que us la vull besar.’(Give me your hand / because I want to kiss it.)